:root{--bg: #faf8f4;--bg-alt: #f1ece3;--ink: #1c1a17;--ink-soft: #5c554c;--line: #e4ddd1;--accent: #9a6b3f;--accent-deep: #7a5230;--maxw: 1180px;--serif: "Iowan Old Style", "Palatino Linotype", Palatino, "Book Antiqua", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;--sans: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, "Segoe UI", Roboto, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth}body{margin:0;background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--serif);font-size:18px;line-height:1.75;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;text-rendering:optimizeLegibility}img{max-width:100%;height:auto;display:block}a{color:var(--accent-deep);text-decoration:none;transition:color .2s}a:hover{color:var(--accent)}h1,h2,h3,h4{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:600;line-height:1.2;color:var(--ink)}.container{max-width:var(--maxw);margin:0 auto;padding:0 24px}.narrow{max-width:760px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 24px}.eyebrow{font-family:var(--sans);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.22em;font-size:12px;color:var(--accent);font-weight:600}.site-header{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:50;background:#faf8f4eb;backdrop-filter:saturate(180%) blur(8px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.nav{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;height:76px}.nav__brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px}.nav__brand img{width:46px;height:46px;border-radius:50%}.nav__brand .name{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:20px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.02em;color:var(--ink)}.nav__links{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:30px;list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}.nav__links a{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:14px;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-soft);font-weight:500}.nav__links a:hover,.nav__links a[aria-current=page]{color:var(--accent)}.nav__toggle{display:none;background:none;border:0;cursor:pointer;padding:8px}.nav__toggle 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p{color:#f4ece2;font-size:clamp(1.05rem,2.4vw,1.5rem);font-style:italic;margin:0;max-width:34ch;text-shadow:0 1px 14px rgba(0,0,0,.5)}.hero__cta{margin-top:28px}.btn{display:inline-block;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;padding:14px 30px;border-radius:2px;font-weight:600;background:var(--accent);color:#fff;border:1px solid var(--accent)}.btn:hover{background:var(--accent-deep);color:#fff}.btn--ghost{background:transparent;color:#fff;border-color:#ffffffb3}.btn--ghost:hover{background:#fff;color:var(--ink);border-color:#fff}section{padding:72px 0}.section-head{text-align:center;margin-bottom:48px}.section-head h2{font-size:clamp(1.9rem,4vw,2.7rem);margin:.2em 0 0}.section-head p{color:var(--ink-soft);max-width:60ch;margin:14px auto 0}.alt-bg{background:var(--bg-alt)}.card-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:30px}@media(max-width:900px){.card-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}}@media(max-width:560px){.card-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.card{background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:4px;overflow:hidden;transition:transform .25s ease,box-shadow .25s ease;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.card:hover{transform:translateY(-4px);box-shadow:0 18px 40px -20px #3c281466}.card__img{aspect-ratio:3 / 2;overflow:hidden}.card__img img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .5s ease}.card:hover .card__img img{transform:scale(1.05)}.card__body{padding:22px 24px 26px;flex:1;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.card__body h3{font-size:1.4rem;margin:0 0 8px}.card__date{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:10px}.card__excerpt{color:var(--ink-soft);font-size:.97rem;line-height:1.6;margin:0 0 16px}.card__more{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;font-weight:600;margin-top:auto}.trip-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:24px}@media(max-width:680px){.trip-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.trip-tile{position:relative;display:block;border-radius:5px;overflow:hidden;aspect-ratio:3 / 2;box-shadow:0 12px 34px -18px #3c281480}.trip-tile img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .6s ease}.trip-tile:hover img{transform:scale(1.06)}.trip-tile__overlay{position:absolute;inset:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:flex-end;padding:28px;color:#fff;background:linear-gradient(180deg,#0000 35%,#00000026 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.date{font-family:var(--sans);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.14em;font-size:13px;color:#f0e6d8}.prose{font-size:1.12rem;line-height:1.85;color:#2a2621}.prose p{margin:0 0 1.5em}.prose h3{font-size:1.5rem;margin:2em 0 .6em;color:var(--accent-deep)}.lede{font-style:italic;font-size:1.3rem;color:var(--ink-soft);text-align:center;margin:0 auto 2em;max-width:40ch}.figure{margin:2.6em 0}.figure img{width:100%;border-radius:4px}.figure figcaption{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:13px;color:var(--ink-soft);text-align:center;margin-top:10px;font-style:italic}.figure-duo{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:16px;margin:2.6em 0}@media(max-width:620px){.figure-duo{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.figure-duo img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;border-radius:4px}.article-nav{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:48px;padding-top:28px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:14px}.masonry{columns:3 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.date{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent)}.post-row p{color:var(--ink-soft);margin:8px 0 0;font-size:1rem}@media(max-width:560px){.post-row{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:12px}}.about-portrait{float:right;width:300px;max-width:42%;margin:6px 0 24px 32px;border-radius:4px}@media(max-width:620px){.about-portrait{float:none;width:100%;max-width:100%;margin:0 0 24px}}.contact-card{text-align:center;max-width:620px;margin:0 auto}.contact-card .email{font-size:clamp(1.4rem,4vw,2.2rem);margin:20px 0 28px;word-break:break-word}.contact-form{max-width:560px;margin:36px auto 0}.contact-form .field{margin-bottom:20px;text-align:left}.contact-form label{display:block;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-soft);font-weight:600;margin-bottom:8px}.contact-form input,.contact-form textarea{width:100%;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.02rem;color:var(--ink);background:#fff;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:4px;padding:13px 15px;transition:border-color .2s,box-shadow .2s}.contact-form input:focus,.contact-form textarea:focus{outline:none;border-color:var(--accent);box-shadow:0 0 0 3px #9a6b3f1f}.contact-form textarea{resize:vertical;min-height:140px}.contact-form .hp{position:absolute;left:-9999px;width:1px;height:1px;opacity:0}.contact-form .form-actions{text-align:center;margin-top:8px}.contact-form button:disabled{opacity:.6;cursor:default}.form-status{text-align:center;margin:18px 0 0;font-size:.98rem;min-height:1.4em}.form-status.ok{color:#2f6b3a}.form-status.warn{color:#a5432b}.site-footer{background:#1c1a17;color:#c9c0b3;padding:56px 0 40px;margin-top:0}.site-footer .inner{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;gap:18px;text-align:center}.site-footer img{width:56px;height:56px;border-radius:50%;opacity:.95}.site-footer .fnav{display:flex;gap:24px;flex-wrap:wrap;justify-content:center;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase}.site-footer .fnav a{color:#c9c0b3}.site-footer .fnav a:hover{color:#fff}.site-footer .copy{font-family:var(--sans);font-size:13px;color:#8a8175}.lightbox{position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:200;background:#0f0c09f0;display:none;align-items:center;justify-content:center}.lightbox.open{display:flex}.lightbox__figure{margin:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;gap:12px;max-width:92vw}.lightbox img{max-width:92vw;max-height:82vh;border-radius:3px;box-shadow:0 20px 60px #0009}.lightbox__cap{color:#eadfce;font-family:var(--sans);font-size:14px;letter-spacing:.04em;text-align:center}.lightbox__btn{position:absolute;background:none;border:0;color:#fff;cursor:pointer;font-size:40px;line-height:1;padding:12px;opacity:.8}.lightbox__btn:hover{opacity:1}.lightbox__close{top:14px;right:20px;font-size:34px}.lightbox__prev{left:10px;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%)}.lightbox__next{right:10px;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%)}@media(max-width:560px){.lightbox__prev,.lightbox__next{font-size:30px}}