The Journey in Tibet

On Day 4, we embarked on our journey from Lhasa to Shigatse, our first stop being Gamala Pass. Clouds hung over the mountains, lending the pass a dreamy quality. However, the sight of animals by the roadside, looking dejected as tourists paid to pose with them, was disheartening. We continued onward to Yamdrok Lake, our next destination.

Yamdrok Lake looked almost surreal, its cobalt blue waters set against a backdrop of majestic mountains. Our guide shared that it’s a lengthy freshwater lake, stretching over 70 km, and one of Tibet’s three largest. Though we had hoped to glimpse the Holy Mountain Nyenchen Khangsar, a snow-capped peak visible from Yamdrok’s shores, clouds obscured our view.

Our next stop was the magnificent Korola Glacier, situated at over 16,000 ft (5039 meters) in Tibet. The glacier clings to the south side of Mt. Nojin Kangsang, a towering peak rising to 23,590 ft. A wooden walkway led directly to the glacier’s foot, flanked by Tibetan Nomad encampments.

We continued our journey to Gyantse. Our next stop was Simila Mountain Pass, an amazing pass with an emerald lake offering a breathtaking view.

At Simila Mountain Pass and Korala Glacier, vibrant prayer flags fluttered in the breeze, hung in the hope of promoting world peace. Amidst this stunning natural backdrop, we prayed that the multitude of flags would usher in an era of global harmony.

Our driver (left) and guide (right) were set to embark on the next leg of our journey. We were in Shigatse, Tibet’s second-largest city and the capital of Tsang province, ready to explore all it had to offer.

Shigatse offered us a distinctly different experience. This thriving town boasted modern amenities, its stores flashing with contemporary lights and decor. New constructions were evident everywhere, suggesting Shigatse is being positioned as a hub of modernity in high-altitude Tibet.

Situated on the foothills of the Tibetan Plateau, the magnificent Tashi Lhunpo Monastery is a bastion of the Gelugpa tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. As the historic seat of the Panchen Lamas, it holds great cultural and religious significance.

Founded in the 15th century by the 1st Dalai Lama, Gyalwa Gendun Drubpa, a disciple of the renowned Buddhist master Lama Tsongkhapa (also known as Guru Padmasambhava), the monastery once housed 4000 monks. Today, only 400-500 monks remain, a testament to the political upheavals and shifting fortunes of the Panchen Lama’s lineage. Tashi Lhunpo Monastery stands as a vital landmark of Tibetan Buddhism’s evolution and cultural heritage.

Another highlight of Shigatse was dinner at a traditional Tibetan restaurant (Songtsen Tibetan Restaurant) that offered live music (press play below to see the clip) with a sumptuous hot pot.

We embarked on our journey from Shigatse to Everest Base Camp, our first stop being Gyatso La Pass. Our guide informed us that the Himalayan Range would be visible from our next stop, Gawula Pass. The bus ascended via a winding road, offering a glimpse of our zigzagging route below. Though the view was somewhat clouded, the Himalayan Range rose on the horizon, thrilling me. The winding road stretching across the plateau created a striking foreground at Gawula Pass.

The charming town of Gyirong, nestled at the Tibet-Nepal border, is enveloped by towering mountains cloaked in lush greenery. Here, Pakpa Lhakang Monastery, built by Lama Gampo in the Nepalese style, stands as a dedication to Princess Bhrkuti of Nepal. South of town, a picturesque trail, accessed via a suspension bridge, led us through a vibrant forest and a quaint village. Our walk culminated at Guru Rinpoche’s cave, situated at a mountain’s foothills. The site, with its burning lamps, chanting of Buddhist mantras, and fluttering prayer flags, was imbued with deep sanctity. I was grateful to capture a lovely group photo at the suspension bridge spanning Kyipu Canyon. At this point, our group of ten divided; five returned to Lhasa, while the others continued across the Nepal border to Kathmandu. The latter faced a series of challenges – road flooding, power outages, and a difficult border crossing – but ultimately arrived home safely. Despite the varied endings, the journey remained a shared memoir.